A Low-Key, Red Bordeaux Like Chateau Brillette Actually Tastes Great With Fish

Sorry I’ve gone a few weeks without writing.  The excuse this time is my day job, which had me traveling to the various corners of the Continental United States.  I’m headed back to Idaho (of all places) at the end of the month and hope to get a post off the ground about the restaurant experiences I’ve had there.  But here I am teasing you when I should be writing, so onward….

Robert Parker once tweeted about how food and wine pairings have become  “overlegislated” and I tend to agree with him.  This blog really isn’t about providing you with a slide-rule or some other method to pair food and wine or food and drink. I’m mostly just writing about my memorable personal experiences.  And if there’s one thing I have learned is that the old “white wine with fish or chicken” or “red wine with red meat” rule has many exceptions.  So many exceptions, in fact, that I think the “rule” should be viewed more like a general recommendation.  When it comes to eating and drinking, it’s sometimes a good idea to forget the rules.    

A couple of years ago I blogged about a dinner in France where I had the audacity to try a red Bordeaux with raw oysters.  Damned if I can figure out what was wrong with that pairing.  True, I’ve had oysters with vodka and with sparkling wine and with Sauvignon Blanc and have been blown away at the deliciousness of these pairings.  But in this case, the dry red wine with only a subtle nob of fruit on the palate did not make the pairing with oysters revolting.  It was actually sort of pleasant. 

Recently, my wife cooked some cod in some bacon fat and served it with brussels sprouts and root veggies.  All I had laying around was a fairly inexpensive Bordeaux I purchased from Trader Joe’s.  Again, I was not only surprised but impressed by the pairing.  I think it was essential that the wine was a bit shy on fruit.  If it had been a big, robust New World wine (the proverbial “Fruit Bomb”) it would have been too icky.  In this case, it evoked memories of my French meal – a subtle wine which didn’t upstage a dish. 

Pinot Noir shares that same quality as a European Cabernet or Merlot.  It’s versatile and elegant.  A wine for all seasons and all occassions.  This is among the reasons whyPinot has exploded in popularity with American wine consumers over the past 10 years.  Best of all, Pinot Noir is a divine pairing with chicken, duck and other fowl.  Also, paired with the drier, steak-like fish such as tuna and swordfish, it’s never proven me wrong. 

Another recommendation: try Pinot or a red Bordeaux with grilled tofu.  Tofu tends to soak up the tastes of what’s around it and play it back in your mouth with a little bit of yeasty pleasantness.  I doubt you will find this pairing a bust. 

Another pairing which seems counter-intuitive but makes total sense is pairing something very fatty like foie gras with a sweet dessert wine, like a Sauterne, Sherry or Hungarian Tokaji.  Holy mackerel is Sautnerne with foie gras delicious! It’s the dinner equivalent of pouring maple syrup on your pancakes slathered in melted butter.   

There simply isn’t any “shoulds” in the world of personal taste.  True some things just don’t taste well together. Pickles ‘n ice cream are best left for the pregnancy cravings.   Ultimately whatever works is what you’ll end up remembering (and writing) about years later!

A Sauterne - Primary A Dessert Wine - Such As Chateau Suduiraut Is A Don't Miss Pairing With Foie Gras (Until Foie Gras Gets Banned, That Is)